A
valiant sentinel in the desert, on the eastern fringe of the Thar desert has
the distinction of neither being a part of the Thar desert nor out of it.At best it is a doorway to the wonderland of sand dunes and shrubs, rocky terrain and thorny trees. The home of the Rathroes - the awesome princely state of Rajasthan. They conquered Marwar or Maroodesh, land of the sand after the fall of Delhi and Kannauj.
In 1459 AD, Rao Jodha, chief of Rathore clan of Rajputs, who claimed descent from Rama, the epic here of the Ramayana, laid the foundation of Jodhpur. A high stone wall protects the well-fortified city. The wall is nearly 10km in length and has eight gates facing various directions.
Within, stands an imposing fort on a low range of sandstone hills, about 125m above the surrounding plains. Invincible! And dauntless in its league with time! The city lies at the foot of the hills. The clear distinction between the old and the new city is visible from the ramparts of the fort.
On the other side of the city, facing the fort is the Umaid Bhawan Palace. One of the most spacious, sprawling and well-planned palaces in India. And from here, as you look at fort, a tantalizing view rises before your eyes at sunset.
The peculiar slant of the sunset lends the desert landscape an awe-inspiring glow and the people, a chivalry undaunted.
This bustling desert city is the second largest city in Rajasthan after Jaipur and has landscape dominated by the massive Meherangarh Fort topping a sheer rocky ridge.
The old city is fenced by 10 km long wall with eight Gates leading out of it. The new city is outside the walled city. Rao Jodha, a chief of the Rathore clan, founded the city in 1459 and it is named after him.
The Afghans drove the Rathores out of their original homeland Kaunaj and they fled to this region around Pali a short distance from present day Jodhpur. A manoeuvre lead to marriage between Rathore Siahaji and the sister of a local prince that helped the Rathores to establish and strengthen themselves in this region. In fact they flourished so well that managed to oust the Pratiharas of Mandore, just 9 km of present day Jodhpur.
By 1459 a need for more secured capital lead to the founding of Meherangarh
Fort on its rocky perch and Jodhpur was thus founded by Rao Jodha. The Rathores
enjoyed good relations with the Mughals and Maharaja Jaswant Singh (1678) supported
Shah Jahan in the latter's struggle for war of succession. Only problematic
relationship they had was with Aurangzeb.After Auranzeb's death Maharaja Ajit Singh drove out Mughals from Ajmer and added it to Marwar. In the reign of Maharaja Umed Singh Jodhpur grew into a fine modern city. The quintessence of Jodhpur was its valour and equestrian skill. Polo has been the traditional sport of the Jodhpur nobility since medieval times.
Jodhpur has two railway stations, City and Rai ka Bagh both are outside the walled city. The bus stand is right outside the Rai ka Bagh Station. The High Court is a while from the bus stand after the Umed Gardens, after which is located the tourist reception centre and RTDC Hotel Ghoomer.
Ahead is the main market and entry in to the wall from Sojati Gate. This area also has many hotels. Jodhpur is also military and air force station and has a large cantonment and airbase.
Places to See in Jodhpur
» Umaid Bhawan Palace
Maharaja Umaid Singhji who built this palace was fascinated with western lifestyles so he marshalled the services of a well-known Edwardian architect, Henry Vaughan Lanchester, a creditable equal of Edward Lutyens (architect of New Delhi) to construct a three hundred and forty seven roomed Umaid Palace. This was to become India last of the great palaces and the biggest private residence in the world. Spectacular Central Rotunda, the cupola rises to a hundred and five feet high; the Throne Room with its exquisite Ramayana murals; an elegant wood-panelled library, and even a private museum; an indoor swimming pool, a Billiards Room, tennis courts and unique marble squash courts makes Umaid Bhawan Palace is unabashedly the most magnificent.
» Mehrangarh Fort
Perched on a 150 m high hill its sprawl is the most formidable and magnificent
fort in Rajasthan. Rao Jodha founded it in 1459 but subsequent rulers of Jodhpur
have also added to it over the centuries. A meandering road leads to the from
the city 5 kms below. Battle scars of canon ball hit by attacking armies of
Jaipur can still be seen on the second gate. To the left is chhatri of Kirat
Singh Soda, a soldier who fell on the spot while defending the fort against
the armies of Amber. There are seven gates, which include Jayapol meaning victory
built by Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate his victories over Jaipur and Bikaner
armies. Fattehpol also meaning victory gate was built by Maharaja Ajit Singh
to mark the defeat of Mughals. And Lohapol meaning iron gate has a moving memorabilia
on palm print of the queens of Maharaja Man Singh who threw themselves on his
funeral pyre in an act of sati [self-immolation]. The palm imprints still attract
devotional attention and are covered by vermilion paste and paper-thin silver
foil.» Jaswant Thada
On the way down from the fort, on left is Jaswant Thada, the graceful marble cenotaph of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. His son Maharaja Sardar Singhji built the Taj Mahal of Marwar in the memory of Maharaj Jaswant Singhji II of Jodhpur. The cenotaphs of earlier Maharajas and Maharanis are at Mandore. Wives and concubines committed Sati on Jaswant Funeral pyre. The main memorial has been built like a temple with intricately carved marble stone that is sculpted by the genius artesian. A visit to this structure is through the rocky hills giving it a secluded and a mystic aura.
» Mandore Garden
Mandore was the former capital of Maharajas of Marwar and is located about 5 miles north of Jodhpur, but was later abandoned for the security of Mehrangarh fort. Here you will find the dewals, or cenotaphs of Jodhpur's former rulers. Unlike the usual chhatri-shaped cenotaphs typical of Rajasthan, they were built along the lines of a Hindu temple, four stories high, with fine columns and an elegant spire, all in red sandstone. The most impressive is the dewal of Maharaja Ajit Singh (reigned 1678-1724). These cenotaphs are set in beautiful landscaped gardens.
» Bal Samand
Bal Samand lake and agarden are located on Jodhpur-Mandore road, 7 kms from Jodhpur. It was constructed in 1159 by Parihar Balak Rao. Approximately one kilometer long, 50 meters wide and 15 meters deep this lake has been made by storing the rain water. Water was supplied to Gulab Sagar, Fateh Sagar and Sardar Sagar canals from this lake.
Fairs & Festivals in Jodhpur» Nagaur Fair
This eight days fair held every year during the month of Jan-Feb, is popularly known as the Cattle fair and is the second largest in Rajasthan. Nagaur Town is the most picturesque of Rajput townships. Nagaur is a sea of animals, trading over 70,000 bullocks, camels and horses every year. The bullocks are known for their fleetness. Not only are the animals lavishly decorated, even their owners flaunt wearing colourful turbans and long moustaches. Shearing sheep, handsome marwari horses to spices all compiled in one fair. Attractions include the mirchi bazaar (largest red-chilly market of India), wooden items, iron-crafts and camel leather accessories.
Sports like tug-of-war, camel races, bullock races and cock fights; jugglers; puppeteers, story-tellers; and exciting campfire evenings are held to entertain the tourists. Folk music of the Jodhpur variation echoes the tranquil desert sand. Nagaur is well connected to the major cities by road and rail. Nearest airport is Jodhpur, some 135kms away.
» Makar Sankranti
The festival is celebrated on the 14th of January every year. This has now become the festival of kite-flying which does not spare the soaring spirits of anyone in Jaipur. The devoted ones, however, take a holy dip in the kund at Galtaji. The traditional sweet associated with it is Phirni, made in abundance by the halwais of Jaipur
» Gangaur
Young girls and newly married women praying for their loved one or husband respectively, offer prayers to Goddess Parvati in spring (March-April). A colourful procession follows the silver and gold palanquins of Goddess Parvati brought out from the City Palace. Ghever, the traditional sweet associated with this festival is prepared all over the city.
» Elephant Festival
This festival is held on the day of Holi, the festival of colours, at the Chaughan stadium. Beautifully decorated and caparisoned elephants assemble to participate in the royal procession. Elephant polo, elephant race,elephant tug-of-war with a few tourist and holi on elephant back are some of the exciting events.
» Teej
To celebrate the advent of the monsoon, girls and young women dressed in colourful leharia sarees or costumes, sing songs and offer puja to goddess parvati, and pray for conjugal bliss and happiness. An elaborate procession comes out of the City Palace for two consecutive days. Villagers come to watch it in large numbers and buy knick-knacks from the stalls on the footpaths of the main bazars.
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